Old faithfuls, and some newcomers
Sunday Independent January 1st 2012

Lucinda O’Sullivan serves up her choices for the best, and ‘could do betters’, of the nation’s dining experiences

IT’S been a year of value menus and early birds, pop ups and pop offs, bloggers and blaggers. My annual awards are a reflection of a colourful dining year for all of us. So without further ado, ladies and gentlemen, I give you the Lucindas 2011!

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The Lofty Sardine Award
The Butcher’s Grill in Ranelagh, Dublin, where my feet didn’t touch the ground and my ass was
perched on a high stool, squashed in like a lofty sardine.

The Old Faithful Award
Tom O’Connell, who at a time of deep recession held his nerve and created the excellent
O’Connell’s of Donnybrook, Dublin, where his faithful followers flock.

Small is Beautiful Award
Kosi Moodley’s Indian gem Bistro Spice right in the heart of Monkstown Village, Co Dublin, where
you can also bring your own wine.

The Disappointing Harvest Award
Matt the Thresher in Dublin’s Lower Pembroke Street. Crab claws were small and smaller, and
everything else lived down to the same mantra.

The Strictly Come Dancing Award
Tadgh Foley, who manages the Green Barn Cafe Bistro at Killeagh, Co Cork, will sweep you to your
table in a move that even SCD judges could not whinge about.

The Sour Note Award
Coda at the Gibson Hotel, Dublin, didn’t rock on any score. Ghastly food, and already setting up for
breakfast shortly after we sat down to an early dinner.

The Braveheart Award
Mel Gibson acted the part but John Healy, maitre d’ on TV show The Restaurant — whose grace and
charm astounds all as he awaits a heart transplant — lives it and life to the full.

The Western Stars
JP McManus & Drigin Gaffey, whose Cava and Aniar in Galway are two of the hottest restaurants
west of the Shannon.

Downton Abbey Award
Carton House in Maynooth, Co Kildare, rivals the TV show for grace and beauty.

The Top Roost Award
Joe Macken’s pop-ups Crackbird and Skinflint in Dublin are hitting the highest perches.

The Apprentice Award
Sandra Murphy is more master than apprentice when it comes to running Rising Tide in Cork.

Revolving Door Award
La Stampa, where Louis Murray is now tangoing with Ronan Ryan. Let’s hope they stay in step.

The ‘X Factor’ Award
Finin’s in Midleton, Cork, where Finin O’Sullivan’s vibrant personality is matched only by the quality of his gastropub grub.

The Odd Bird Award
Rachel Clancy’s Magpie Inn in Dalkey, Co Dublin, has been attracting the locals looking for all that glisters.

The Shining Light Award
Electric in Cork city, which turned a bank building into something useful!

The Brangelina Award
Paul Byrne and Fiona McHugh, whose Fallon & Byrne in the capital’s Exchequer Street spawned a whole new dining quarter.

The Top Cat Award
Garret Byrne of Campagne in Kilkenny, whose superb food must be another All Ireland contender.

The Twitter Award
To master butcher Jack McCarthy, who would make Kanturk the Irish capital.

And finally…
Every year I have the Rear of the Year Award — though this year it’s the Fairy Tail End of 2011 as
the beautiful Sally O’Brien of Farmgate in Midleton walked up the aisle yesterday.

THOUGH, obviously enough, The Old Convent was once a nunnery it is an alpha-male building radiating authority through its assertive, almost garrison-like lines and magnificent stone facade.

It was built when Catholicism was a certainty rather than a choice. The depth of the conviction behind the building shouts out still, long after the nuns have gone. It does not do doubt, it does not waver and there’s no room for even a shard of ambiguity.

And if you’re prepared to make an imaginative leap the same can be said of the wonderful, earthy-rich food presented by Dermot and Christine Gannon.

Like Catholicism of old, it is an absolute package, a take-it-or-leave deal because The Old Convent does not do choice — the house usually offers only a tasting menu. Just as the Catholic hierarchy of old-fought à la carte Catholicism, the Gannons are confident enough to offer a set menu, one not revealed until you arrive.

In our case — DW and I — we enjoyed it thoroughly, even if we did not realise we were to be so constrained as the house style was not explained when I made our booking. Neither did it seem to deter other guests — we had to book several weeks in advance to get a Saturday night table.

Nevertheless, if you are prepared to surrender the dubious pleasure of 10 minutes puzzling your way through a menu, the eight dainty courses were a real pleasure and two, if not three, were exceptional.

Engagements opened with a dessert spoon of duck liver and bantam egg mousse with smoked-duck lardons apple syrup all presented in a decapitated eggshell. It was a velvet-smooth, deeply-rich tasting morsel arranged with care and humour.

The next course, for me at least, screamed more, more and still more. It was in essence, a hint of what might be, as enjoyable a main course as it might have been my pleasure to discover.

It was, and the “it” was hardly a golf-ball-and-a-half in size, slow-cooked Ballinwillan rare breed pork with Cashel blue cheese, pears and candied almonds. It was as impressive a pork-and-fruit combination as I’ve come across and, like a glimpse of heaven, its fleeting pleasure was as frustrating as it was satisfying. Nevertheless it was a truly exceptional combination of textures and tastes.

The next dish — a coffee cup of cauliflower veloute — was dull and the least impressive of the evening.

It was followed by buttermilk poached organic salmon, baked crab, sushi rice, elderflower and pineapple salad. Though impressive enough it was the dish that tried too hard and probably best showed the difference between a tasting menu dish and a dish from an à la carte menu. The essences of the perfectly good ingredients were almost lost in the tasting menu imperative to push the boat out.

Next was a wonderful apple sorbet with raspberry jelly. This is a simple dish that can say more about a kitchen than many others. Here, in contrast to its predecessor, was a victory for the kind directness that underpins great cooking. It was truly exceptional.

So, too, was the next course. Heifer beef, truffled white cocoa beans, wild mushrooms, triple cooked potatoes and veal jus. The beef — flagged as Jack McCarthy’s dry aged — was pretty much as close to perfect as anyone could ask for. It had depth of taste, a tender texture and was cooked in a way that completely honoured the entire process. A third exceptional dish in one evening.

This was followed by two more courses — a lemon posset and a Valrhona dark chocolate pot — and both were really good. Our wine, Condado de Haza Ribera del Duero Tinto 2007 from Ribera del Duero was excellent.

The Old Convent does food-and-accommodation packages and seems to be an ideal place for one of those short, re-energising winter breaks, and even if the weather can’t be guaranteed, it seems the quality of the food can be. And you’ll experience the legacy of the nuns who seem to have left a very calm karma in the building that enhances the whole experience.

Altogether wonderful food, served with style, in a lovely place.

By MARIA HERLIHY

At the launch of Meat Matters at IRD Duhallow headquarters, Newmarket were from left, Cathal Cronin, Cronins Butchers's, Kanturk; Minister Sean Sherlock who launched the programme; Isobel Fletcher, programme co- ordinator and Tim Mccarthy, Mccarthy's... Credit: Photo by Patrick Casey

A PROJECT to help the local meat supply chain to survive and thrive was launched in Newmarket recently.

The two year project which was launched at IRD Duhallow and its aims is to help small abattoirs, butchers and meat processors across the EU.

THE number of abattoirs across Ireland has fallen in the last two decades from 1,000 to just over 200, and this is a trend which is also repeated across Europe.

However, the ‘Local Meat Supply Chains (SLMSC) project, which is funded by the EU lifelong learning programme, now aims to stem the decline and, importantly, develop an e-learning training programme for small abattoirs, butchers and meat processors throughout Duhallow.

Minister for Research and Development Sean Sherlock officially launched the project and said that supporting the agri food sector is vitally important and will be a major contributor to helping Ireland recover economically.

“It is heartening to see a project addressing some of the challenges faced by the rural meat sector in maintaining profitability and competitiveness,” he said.

Project Co-ordinator at IRD Duhallow Isobel Fletcher said that abattoirs play a key role in the meat supply chain, but yet they have been closing down in the last number of years.

She said that given their rural location, small abattoirs are also faced with the difficulty of retraining and reintegrating staff into the labour market.

“The decline is partly due to external factors such as stringent international legislation, dominance of multinational retailer as well as rising consumer quality demands and scrutiny by environmental and nutritional groups,” said Ms Fletcher.

She told The Corkman that the project has been enthusiastically received by many working in the meat industry.

“They recognise that the future to long term survival depends on developing additional business skills and adding creativity to products and the way in which they do business. The project comes at a time when the industry itself is gearing up for change, she said.

- MARIA HERLIHY

For the pea puree:
2 packs of frozen petits pois
2 bags of fresh peas
4 Garlic cloves
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Salt
Chicken Stock
Basil
Mint
Sherry Vinegar

For the crumb:
Jack McCarthy’s Black Pudding
400g of Walnuts – shelled preferably

For the braised spring onions:
Water/butter for an emulsion
Salt
Pepper
6 bunches of spring onions

For the crispy bacon:
20 slices of smoked bacon

For the pigeon glaze:
Truffle honey
Dijon mustard

For the pigeon jus
Dark Chicken stock
Sherry vinegar

For decoration:
Flowering pea shoots
Borage flowers
Salt
Method

Pre-heat oven to 150 degrees.

For the spring onions: Prepare the spring onions, blanch and set in iced water. Closer to service, warm and cook through both spring onions and blanched peas in a water butter emulsion.

For the crumb: Cook the walnuts at 150 degrees for 15 minutes, remove and peel. Pan fry black pudding until crisp.

For the peas: Cook fresh peas in salted water, remove skins and set in ice cold water. Cook garlic in olive oil and allow to infuse. Cook frozen peas in water for 4 minutes. Blitz frozen peas for 5 minutes, with some light chicken stock, pass through a chinois and add garlic oil to taste, salt and sherry vinegar. Set peas on a bowl of ice to maintain colour.

For the glaze: Mix equal quantities of dijon mustard with truffle honey and set aside.

For the pigeon: Prepare the pigeon pieces and set in 2 vac pac bags with a few thyme sprigs, two slices of smoked bacon, a couple of tablespoons of port and a few knobs of butter. Place in a water bath at 61 degrees celsius for 2 hours. Remove from bag, reserving juices. Pass juices through muslin and reserve for sauce. Using a pastry brush generously paste glaze on to pigeon and place under the grill on high for 4 to 5 minutes until golden brown.

For the pigeon livers: Season livers just before cooking and pan fry in oil and butter for 2 minutes each side on a medium heat.

For the crisp bacon : Crisp bacon under the grill.

For the pigeon jus: Strain the reserved juice into a muslin cloth and allow to boil gently. Add chicken stock and sherry vinegar to taste. Serve alongside the pigeon in a jug.

Finish: Place crumbled pudding and walnuts on to pigeon. Set squab on top of pea puree, scatter with blanched peas and place the onions alongside. Place crisp bacon on the place. Decorate with borage flowers and pea shoots.

Equipment needed:
Two chopping boards
Plastic gloves
Five small metal trays which can be placed under the grill
Whisk
4 saucepans
Muslin
Water bath set to 61 degrees
Oven preheated to 150 degrees
Blender
Le Micro Blender
Microplane
Mandolin
Non stick frying pan
Spatula
Chinoise – or flat chinoise preferrrably
Hand blender
Bowl of ice in freezer

This is a recipe which is translated courtesy of Hacker-Pschorr German Beer
Ingredients:
FOR 4 PEOPLE
500 g veal bones
1.5-2 kg of raw, boneless Belly Pork
Salt
2 tablespoons oil
700 ml chicken broth
1 kg small, waxy potatoes
300 g shallots
2 carrots
200 g celeriac
1 tsp powdered sugar
125 ml of malt
1 teaspoon tomato paste
2 garlic cloves, sliced
2 slices fresh ginger
2 bay leaves
1 / 2 tsp cumin, whole
1 / 2 teaspoon dried marjoram
black pepper
For more delicious recipes are available in Bavarian schools Alfons Beck’s new book:
“Bavarian enjoy”
Preheat the oven to 200 ° C. Put the chopped veal bones on a baking sheet and bake in preheated oven about 1 hour. Remove from oven and drain on absorbent paper. Turn the oven down to 150 ° C.

Rub the belly pork with salt. Heat the oil in a roasting pan and fry over medium heat on the flesh side. Then pour in the broth and put in the Belly Pork with the skin side down – the fat layer should be completely covered with the broth, otherwise add a little broth. Add the roasted bones and roast in oven for 1 hour.

Peel and chop the vegetables.

Remove the roast from the oven. Place the meat with the fat side up on a board and in the rind strips at a distance of about 1 to 1.5 cm cut.

Keep the broth from the roasting pan aside. Place the roasting pan on the stove over medium heat, add a dusting of icing sugar and caramelise lightly. Deglaze with the root beer, add the tomato paste and simmer until creamy. Then stir in the vegetables and pour over the reserved stock.

Place the meat with the skin side up on top of the vegetables and cook for about 1 1 / 2 to 2 hours. About 20 minutes before end of cooking add garlic, ginger, bay leaf, cumin and oregano.

If the crust is not crisp enough, move to the top of the oven or the grill. Take the roast from the oven, remove the garlic, ginger and bay leaves and cut the finished roast into slices. Serve with the vegetables and the gravy with salt and pepper to the meat and serve.

Images and original text © Alfons Beck, enjoy Bavarian

by Geraldine Comiskey

Never mind that it was no mudfest this year – it didn’t stop more than 190,000 people giving it welly for Ireland for three days at the National Ploughing Championships.

…….

…

Jack McCarthy’s handmade Irish Haggis also features and is served as a starter with a brown onion puree, roast garlic and a wild mushroom and Bushmills sauce for €8.95.

Set right in the heart of Roscommon town, overlooking the square, Mary and Eamonn Gleeson’s townhouse and restaurant provides just what every visitor requires: a warm welcome, comfortable rooms and first-class food. Pan Fry the boudin lightly in clarified butter until warm through Pan Fry the potato cake on low heat until the outside is crusty. Poach the eggs in boiling water with white vinegar. For the frizzy onion, slice the onion paper thin, toss in a little light batter and dust with seasoned flour. Deep fry until crunchy. For assembly place the boudin in the centre of the plate, put the potato cake on top, followed by the poached eggs and frizzy onion. Garnish with fresh seasonal herbs, oregano, basil, etc.